Wednesday, 21 September 2016

Simplicity 1418 dress

This weekend just gone my brother got married. An occasion like that demands a new dress, don't you think? And obviously I had to make that dress. I knew I wanted to stick with my favoured fit and flare silhouette, but with some sort of feature to stand out from the dresses I wear on a daily basis. I looked through my pattern stash and eventually settled on Simplicity 1418.


This is a pattern that I got free with a magazine at some point and to be honest I'd forgotten I even owned it, but it was just what I wanted for this project. Simplicity 1418 is one of the Pattern Runway series, which has various bodice options and a pleated skirt. I decided to omit the back inserts and shoulder straps, and use the off-the-shoulder sleeves.


I made a toile of the bodice using a size 16 at the bust and grading to an 18 at the waist, and making my standard adjustment of adding an inch to the length. The fit was good, apart from when it came to the sleeves - they were huge! I took a large wedge out of the middle of the sleeve piece, which greatly improved things but there was still a bit of extra room so I slimmed them down again. I think in the end I took around 3 inches out of the sleeve, and adjusted the elastic and casing that help hold the sleeve in place by the same amount.


That meant I was ready to move on to creating the actual dress. I considered a whole range of fabric options, but the winner in the end was this lovely viscose and linen mix from Sew La Di Da. It's a really gorgeous fabric, and I think the large scale print helps to make it stand out from my everyday dresses.

It is quite a thin fabric so I decided to underline everything with white cotton lawn. I'm really happy I made that choice - not only does it ensure that the fabric is opaque, it also makes the colours look more vivid.


I cut everything out in a single layer to make it easier to get the print placement right. I wanted to make sure I had one of the groups of 3 poppies in the centre of the bodice, and then carry that on down through the skirt. The front bodice also has princess seams, and I matched the pattern up as closely as possible between the centre front and side front sections. I'm glad I put in the effort to do that - I think the bodice could have ended up looking a bit of a mess with this print otherwise.

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The sewing process was all straightforward and the instructions were easy to follow. I decided to line the bodice instead of using the facings. I used the facings on my toile and there's absolutely nothing wrong with them, but I just prefer the clean finish of a lined bodice, especially for a dress like this. I also added 2 inches to the length of the skirt pieces just to make sure that it would be a nice elegant length.

To top it all off, I used some of the remnants of the fabric to make the simple flowers that you can hopefully just about see in my hair in these photos. The benefit of making your own outfit is that it's easy to make sure your accessories match because you can just use the same fabric!


 I really enjoyed wearing this dress - I was slightly concerned that the off-the-shoulder sleeves would annoy me, but they didn't at all. I think having the elastic underneath the sleeves really helps them to stay in place and stops the bodice from slipping. It's not going to be one of my most worn dresses because it is a bit special, but it is definitely one of my favourites. Now I just need someone else to get married so that I can wear it again!

16 comments:

  1. What a lovely outfit! Your pattern matching is enviable, and I'm impressed that you were able to modify the fit of the sleeves so much without accidentally turning them into tiny straight-jackets (which is what would have happened to me). Where did you find such perfectly matching shoes?

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    1. Thank you! I did wear my toile around my flat for a couple of hours after I adjusted the sleeves to make sure I hadn't taken out too much - I was worried about doing just that. And as luck would have it, I already had the shoes - clearly this combination was just meant to be!

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  2. Stunning. Really lovely match of fabric and pattern. I bet you felt amazing K xXx

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    1. Thank you! Yes, it was a lovely outfit to wear!

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  3. That is some fantastic fabric matching - I can't even see those princess seams! Beautiful dress!

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    1. Thank you - that means the time I spent on cutting out was definitely justified! :)

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  4. The dress looks really great. I'm so impressed with your pattern matching, I made this pattern two Christmases ago and totally fluffed up the pattern matching. I ended up taking loads out of the sleeve too. You've made me want to make another one!

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    1. I think I might have looked at your version after I made my toile - I went online then to check whether anyone else had had sleeve issues because they were so big I thought I must have done something odd! I did pay more attention to pattern matching than usual - I thought I really needed to with a print this big

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  5. That fabric is gorgeous, and it pairs with this pattern perfectly. I love how you lined up the print. Terrific job all around!

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    1. Thank you! I did put quick a bit of thought into the pattern placement - I had a feeling it would make or break this dress!

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  6. Gorgeous! I really like the project runway series, I'm surprised I don't have this one (might have to fix that ;o)

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    1. Thank you! I'd definitely recommend the pattern (as long as you make a toile to check the fit of the sleeves!)

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  7. The dress is stunning and you look lovely. Great pattern matching and accessorising witb your shoes as well

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    1. Thank you! I was really glad the fabric matched the shoes - I've been looking for an occasion to wear them!

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  8. You look absolutely gorgeous, Ruth! The off the shoulder style looks so elegant on you. I couldn't even see that there were princess seams so you've done a fantastic job of pattern matching. Your hair is looking lovely as well, are you growing it long? I've been contemplating growing out my short hairstyle too.

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    1. Thank you Jo! It was a lovely dress to wear!
      And thanks about my hair too - I don't think I'll be growing it much longer than this (mainly because it's really thick and there's too much of it when it's long!), but I'm liking having it a bit longer than it was.

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